1954 Chevrolet Corvette, Polo White, matching numbers, adembenemend mooie restauratie, vakwerk in elk opzicht. Absolute topstaat! Nederlands kenteken. This is an investment grade 1954 Corvette, last owner has owned it since 1996.
He did a 12 year restoration, the car was completed 10 years ago. Has won every show entered.
Body off restoration to NCRS specs, Polo White with Sportsman red interior and beige canvas top, original gauges and Wonderbar radio, 63000 original miles. All original stainless trim rebuffed and original chrome rechromed, including grill oval & teeth. Matching 235 ci Blueflame 150 with 3 Carter side drafts, automatic Powerglide transmission.
The car originally came from Nebraska, where it was owned by a ‘Shriner’, who used it mainly in parades from new. Later it was sold to an owner in Michigan, then in 1969 it was sold to a Mr. Beaky of London, Ontario. Beaky disassembled the car, sandblasted the frame and primed it, then placed it on a storage rack, where it sat for 27 years, until the last owner bought it in 1996. He restored the entire car. Almost all of the nuts and bolts are original.
All the stainless trim, all the chrome plated parts and the hubcaps are original, polished, or chromed back to perfection. The undamaged body was painted in urethane, not the original nitro-cellulose, so the paint is still flawless. The engine is numbers matching, and the transmission, rear axle and frame all have correct date codes for this car. The paint and interior colors are the original colors as the car was produced by GM.
The interior is correct and absolutely magnificent. The serial number is 2805, so the 1805th one produced that year. The frame is original, sandblasted, painted, with no repairs ever required. It has the original Wonderbar radio, which works. Although it has been driven less than a 1,000 miles since restoration, it does drive great!
Dutch registration.
Hey, choptop30, I got your PM, but I'll answer over here. First, I was going to send you over to the Inliners site to look at their casting numbers list. Print it and take it with you while you're looking through this stuff.
Inliners also has an article about the 261' in their Tech Tips, but I had trouble getting that page to come up. Go look @ for some more info on these engines. The number on the pad behind the distributor is the SERIAL #, not the CASTING # (big diff). Someone had just posted a new tip on the Stovebolt page on I.D.ing a 235 or 261 engine by the serial #. Also, read the short article about the 261' they have. Learned something new myself; from '58 on, the 261' had a screw-on oil filter. This was a first for the Chevy and GMC sixes.
As Kustm52 pointed out, any 235 from 55-62 is a good one, same goes for the 261, which only came with solid lifters. The head with the casting number ending with 848 is the best one to use with either block; it has the smallest combustion chamber. I mention the 261 because it is no more expensive to build than a 235. With a mild overbore, you can have a 270' six, which is a 15% increase in cubes for no real extra effort. The only thing you give up is hydraulic lifters.
Most of the later 261's had a head with the casting number ending with 850. If you think you have a 261, look in front of the starter for two small raised lines (Army Captain's bars) on the passenger side. Also look just above the oil pan rail on the driver's side for two oil lines or pipe plugs, one above the other.
261's were set up to install a full-flow oil filter, as an alternative to the crappy bypass filters that were in common use. If you go with a 235, read the Inliner's Tech Tip on converting your block to full-flow BEFORE it goes to the machine shop.
Your engine will thank you. Oh, yeah, while you're looking around, try and get one of the late truck bell housings that have two flat, angled mounting pads on the back side.
Chevrolet 235 Engine Serial Number Con 4 K221
That way, your engine can be supported at the rear, and will make for easier clutch and trans swaps/repairs. Good luck, and post back on what you find. Later, Kinky6.
Desktop-reminder pro activation key. 1960 Chevrolet Engine Identification This article will cover engine identification for 1960 Chevrolet full size passenger cars. This includes all models. Impala, Bel Air, Biscayne, Nomad, Kingswood, Parkwood, Brookwood, El Camino and Sedan Delivery. First we will look at how you can identify the engine before you even open the hood, by looking at the cars badging. Then we will take a look at what variations of these engines were available and how to identify them by their features and casting numbers.
Exterior Badging For 1960, Chevrolet had 3 different plastic grill badges that could have been installed on the car depending on which engine it had. They are as follows: A Chevrolet shield with no 'V' below indicates that a 235 cubic inch inline six-cylinder engine is under the hood. A Chevrolet shield with a gold 'V' below it indicates that a 283 cubic inch V-8 resides inside. Crossed flags with a gold 'V' tell us that a 348 cubic inch V-8 is installed.
Gm Engine Serial Number Lookup
These plastic emblems are installed in the center of an aluminum housing located in the middle of the grill. The rear of the car also carries an identifying emblem. The shield, 'V', and flags combination rules apply the same as for the grill emblem. They are as follows: Larger size shield. 235 ci L-6 Small shield with a 'V'. Flags with a 'V'. 348 ci V-8 The emblem on the rear of the car is also plastic, but it is housed by a chromed pot-metal retainer.
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The 'V' and the cross-flags are also chromed pot-metal. The larger shield used on six-cylinder cars is actually the same part used on the trunk lid of 1956 Chevy V-8 cars. Visual Identification This one is easy, but we'll go over it anyway. If you don't know this one, maybe you should stick with your BMW. 235 ci six cylinder 283 ci V-8 348 ci V-8 Copyright © 2008-2009 60Impala.com.
I think some Mustang guru can figure this out, and perhaps tell you more than you ever wanted to know about cryptic Ford numbers stamped in odd places-much more than I can-but as for basic engine ID, the brass tag is all you got back then. You can easily identify the engine as a 289 vs. A 302 by looking at the casting numbers at the rear of the right cylinder bank. But guessing the exact year of the engine, that takes some research and reading. And mating it to the exact car you have-well good luck.
This is great information and also gives us a lot of links to more good stuff. However, the chart you mention, while very useful, does not actually address specific serial numbers, i.e., when was our actual engine built? With this unique number, is there a record of when and where built? If you have any other suggestions, I would appreciate hearing them. Also, I would like to say thanks for your AMAZINGLY quick answer. I saw a similar question at another site-posted in May 2007 and still not answered! I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 Thriftmaster 1/2 ton, which is supposed to have a 216.
I looked at the Old Car Manual Project web site - but couldn't identify the engine serial number. The engine I have has a serial number next to the distributor that says 'DR140622CAL', which is different from the serial number layout on the above web site. Is there any other sources engine serial number searches?
The other interesting fact, is that everyone, including the old timers, has told me that the 1950 216 has babbitt bearings, which I understand to mean that the bearings are integrated into the piston rods and crankshaft main bearings and are adjusted with shims. When I pulled one of the rod bearing caps off it had a bearing insert.
One of the old timers came over and verified that the engine had insert bearings. I also under stand that the 1950 216 engine was a light blue color like the engine compartment, but the engine is orange. I'm wondering if the engine is a different year? Like I said above, I'd like to track down this engine serial number. Here's a reply I received concerning the serial number, which I received from another forum where I asked this same question. Yes your 'DR ' number is a asigned ID number. Many years ago many states used both engine and chassis ID numbers on titles.
So you got a GM new replacement or reman engine you had to go down to the DMV and get it inspected and the title corrected. Dad replaced the engine in our 41 Chevy in 51 and down to DMV we went.
Most car makers stopped using engine IDs towards the late 50s and states started using just the chassis ID on title. I'm pretty well convinced that the the 50 truck has a 52/53 216 engine. When getting parts I'll probably treat it as a 52 or 53 engine. What I meant was, what is YOUR engine's casting #? No, DMV doesn't mess with engine serial numbers. If you truck had a VIN # on the title that was the same as the engine number (this often happened back then, even though your truck has a perfectly good chassis # which SHOULD be on the title), and then if you changed the engine, your truck would still carry the old engine # on the title.
If your truck has a CHASSIS # on a plate somewhere, I would make THAT the VIN on the title. As for which engine you have, that's important for ordering parts, as you say, but you don't necessarily have to know the YEAR of the engine, just the type.
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If you have a 216, then you don't have insert bearings. One tip off is if you drop the pan, you'll see little 'dippers' attached to the crankshaft to splash oil on the bearings.
It's a very primitive engine and if you are ambitious, it would be nice to put a 235 in there someday.
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